French pastry and I are acquaintances, like that hip mom “friend” you admire from afar but who you really know is much too cool for you. Ok that’s a stretch, but I’m leaving it there. All that to say I love to look at French pastry and eat French pastry and dream about making French pastry, but I’m not French or cool enough to crack the code. Such is the croquembouche – I tried, girl. I tried.
A croquembouche is a French dessert typically made for weddings or celebratory occasions. It’s essentially a tower of caramel-covered cream puffs embellished with thin strands of spun sugar (the caramel). In my opinion it kinda looks like a Christmas tree. It has a round base and is large at first but tapers into the shape of an inverse cone – skinny on top, round on bottom. I’ve been talking about making one for years. I decided this year I was doing it. I posted on social media about doing it. I had to. It was time. But, I ran out of time. (More on that later.)
I made the dough several days in advance which I’d do again though I’d store it differently if I weren’t making it all on the same day. Ah the pâte à choux. I love to say it – so French. This is the type of pastry dough used for cream puffs and eclairs. It came together much easier than I thought. It’s an interesting dough as you cook it on the stovetop and then you use the stand mixer to beat and cool off the dough before incorporating a sh*t ton of eggs (11 large in my recipe) until it’s smooth and silky and ready to pipe into shapes – in this case 1-1.5 inch circles. When they bake they puff up in the oven. I should have used a template, but I was lazy. I just made as many puffs as I could from the recipe I used. I had about 70 puffs I think.
Then there’s the filling. Traditionally it’s a crème pâtissière which is a custard made with sugar, vanilla, milk, and egg yolks. I did make one and it came out great. It was east to make and I’m glad it turned out. See below. It’s not the best shot. I had put the plastic wrap over the top so it wouldn’t develop a film and then didn’t take another pic.
Unfortunately I didn’t get back to my cream puffs until a week later – we’d had a Christmas party and I underestimated my available time to dedicate to the croquembouche. So, my poor pastry cream had to be tossed. A pity, really. It was delicious.
Today I decided I’d try making an entire croquembouche. I’d saved the puffs in the fridge. The dough became squishy but I revived it in the oven – just warmed at 250 degrees F until they crisped up again. I then made a quick and dirty filling using whipping cream, chocolate pudding mix, and powdered sugar. I whipped the first two ingredients until it started to form soft peaks and then added in the powdered sugar to taste. I prepped piping bags with the mixture and put them in the fridge while I poked holes in the puffs. Once I’d finished that, I filled each puff and set aside.
Now the caramel. I’ve been terrified of making it. Every baking show I’d ever seen shows someone burning the caramel. I just knew that would be me. Good news! It totally was! The first batch was burnt and tasted so bitter just as had been described in all those shows. The kind of caramel needed for a croquembouche is more like a spun brown sugar – it hardens because it does not use butter or cream as you’d find in soft caramel. Ingredients are sugar (2 cups) and water (2/3 cup) and sometimes with glucose (or in my case, corn syrup, 2 tablespoons). You bring it to a boil and watch it closely until it turns a light to golden amber color and then you pull it off the heat because it will continue to boil a bit until it cools down. Here’s the burnt batch.
I had to try again because I wasn’t going to let a little sugar defeat me. I mean, the thing I was afraid of (burnt) ended up happening anyway. Had to be better the second time, right? Well – it was, but I was so afraid of burning it that I perhaps took it off the heat sooner than I should have as the color didn’t develop as much as I would have liked.
Screw it. I’m ready to just assemble this thing. I dipped the puffs into the caramel and started to make the base. A few in – boom! I burned my index finger right out the gate – hot caramel is …. hot. Like molten lava hot. (Duh!) After I recovered from the excruciating pain, I continued assembling the base.
I burned myself more and just couldn’t work fast enough. Wouldn’t you know the caramel started to cool and at the end I was just tossing uncoated cream puffs in the center. and slapping ‘em in any which way I could. I spun some sugar with a fork and just started throwing strands at it. Nailed it!
Ok. So I didn’t nail it. I’m bummed, sure. But honestly, I’m kind of proud, too. It tastes great despite its appearance. I think I could probably figure it out if I ever decide to try again, but I think I’m good. I don’t feel the need to master everything I do. Maybe that’s the wrong attitude, but I’m no French pastry chef. I’m just a chick in Ohio who loves pastry and isn’t afraid of failure. I’m cool enough, mom friend. C’est bon.